À Strasbourg: le Christkindelsmärik

Hooray! A proper Erasmus post! This is going to be very long and very photo heavy - I've been on an instagramming spree! I mentioned in my last November post that I had some really exciting and Christmassy things coming up. Well, now it's December and I'm allowed to feel festive (according to my little brother who has apparently decided he is the authority on such things) - and this is the first of those Christmassy things!

Ever since I decided to come to France on my year abroad, ever since I found out that I'd be spending this year in Paris, ever since the beginning, I have wanted to go to Strasbourg for the Christmas markets - there are several - or as they say in Alsatian,, the Christkindelsmärik. 

Strasbourg, for those who don't know, is a city in the east of France, practically sat right on top of the border with Germany (and it has actually been German at certain points in its history). For that reason, it's quite different to a lot of French towns. It is France's little piece of Germany - the architecture is quite German, and scattered throughout the city there are little hints of each culture, such as the French/Alsatian road signs [Alsatian being a German dialect of sorts] It's an interesting blend!

The Dual-Language Road Signs found all over Strasbourg

Anyway - a couple of weeks ago I finally acted on this plan and booked my ticket. Then, yesterday morning, I hopped on the metro over to Paris Est and thanks to the TGV, I was in Strasbourg nice and early to spend the day there :)

Now, it would be a shame to go all the way to Strasbourg to do the Christmas Market and not to look at anything else in the city, so I was actually armed with a list of places to visit, and a route of sorts to take in my meanderings. I only had 7 hours or so, and I meant to make the most of them! 

So on leaving the Gare de Strasbourg, I didn't barrel straight for the market but headed off towards Barrage Vauban. It's a 17th century on the river Ill. That and the Ponts Couverts, where I headed next, make for some great views, and kind of act as a gateway into the city centre; a pretty entrance into La Petite France.

Barrage Vauban

The Ponts Couverts

The centre of Strasbourg itself is actually an island, the Grand Île, and in 1988 it was granted UNESCO World Heritage Status [according to Wikipedia, this was the first time it was conferred on an entire city centre]. I can totally understand why it got this status having wondered around La Petite France, where I went next.

This part of Strasbourg is so pretty. It is also known as Gerberviertel - the tanner's district - and all the buildings are very Alsatian and very medievalesque - I have no idea when they actually date from.

It was gorgeous, and after the past few stressful weeks I've had in Paris, really lovely to be able to meander around winding streets and just dip in and out of little shops and the various markets [they're literally scattered all over the city] as I felt like it.

By this point I was basically at the Cathedral, which is interesting both on its own and as the host to part of the city's Christmas Market. The Cathedral itself is something very like what I have come to expect from French cathedrals - at least, to those I have seen, which admittedly, it very few - with it's very gothic architecture, although it's kind of a rose colour, which is a little bit different.

I'm told it has a quite interesting Astronomical Clock, which puts on a performance every day around half twelve. I was in the the Place de la Cathédrale at the time, but I walked around several times and didn't actually spot it. I have a feeling that this is probably just another example of my not paying enough attention to my surroundings, for which I am sadly well-known by my friends.

Strasbourg Cathedral. 

Then, seeing a sign, in my wisdom, I paid the €2.50 to climb to the top of its spire. There's something like 322 steps to climb, which didn't seem like alllllll that many when I was stood at the bottom but seemed like a very different story half way to the top! 

The steps were very steep and in a spiral all the way to the top [unsurprisingly], and I had to stop several times up the tower huffing and puffing [only to be asked, quite embarrassingly, several times if I was okay by the 50-something year old French woman following behind, who was clearly convinced that I was about to drop dead of an asthma attack and that she had better not overtake me in case I needed resuscitation. Or something]

Although in my defence, I wikipedia'd the cathedral tonight when I was writing this blog, and I am quoting this directly from that webpage:

“At 142 metres (466 feet), it was the world's tallest building from 1647 to 1874 (227 years), when it was surpassed by St. Nikolai's Church, Hamburg. Today it is the sixth-tallest church in the world and the highest still-standing structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.”

So please don't judge me too badly!

On the plus side, the view was totally worth it. On a clear day, you're supposed to be able to see all the way to the Black Forest in the East, and the Vosges Mountain Range in the West, which despite the clouds, I could definitely make out in the distance.

When I eventually got my breath back enough to go back to the bottom [I swear, I'm really not as unfit as it sounds!] I went inside. I'd try to describe it, but I'm not sure that any words I could come up with would do it justice, so I'll let you see for yourselves.

Now [finally] we come to the Christmas Market! It was founded in 1570, which makes it one of the oldest Christmas Markets in Europe, and it's a good one!

The main thing that you notice about this Christmas Market, which I have never picked up on anywhere else [and this is also on its Wikipedia page, funnily enough] is that the streets smell heavenly, of Vin Chaud and spices. It's enough to get anyone's taste buds drooling, so it's no surprise that I sampled some of the Mulled Wine. I also got my hands on some marron chauds [chestnuts] which I have been craving ever since I spotted them at the Paris Christmas market, and a gaufre au chocolat [waffle]. My family will inevitably read this and point out that yet again I am talking about food, but I don't care. I'd like to see them do any different!

Other than the copious amounts of food on offer, there was a complete range of things, from beautiful hand made wooden dolls, to Christmas decorations, hand painted candlesticks and many many candles, models, Christmas decorations and so so much more that I'd never be able to cover it all in one post. 

One thing I did notice, though, was the lack of any music whatsoever - Christmas or otherwise. To me, a Christmas Market needs carols, which granted, are quite an English thing, but there was no music at all that I noticed, not even French music. I had to walk around humming to myself to fill the gap it left, like a slightly deranged person!

Back on track: finally, I ended up at another Christmas Market on Place Kléber, which is also home to Strasbourg's MASSIVE Christmas Tree. I got photos of it both before and after the sunset, and it definitely made an impression at night, when all the lights could properly be seen.

So that's pretty much that! I was going to walk up to see a few other things in Strasbourg, like the European Parliament, and the Jardin Des Deux Rives, which is basically the last stop before you cross the border from France into Germany, but I was having such a nice time meandering around the markets that I didn't bother. As it is, I have like a trillion more photos, and a trillion more things to say, but this blog post is long enough without adding all that in! Strasbourg is a beautiful city and I see myself going back there one day, not least for the fact that my mum has her name written all over it! I'm very jealous of all you Erasmus people who get to live there :)

I've got something else really exciting coming up next weekend as well, which I will also make sure to post about afterwards and which is also likely to be pretty long and photo heavy - so please keep an eye out for that! It's something I've wanted to do for a long time...

Hope everyone is having a lovely December,

Vicky xx

Plusieurs crêpes, et le commencement de Noël

So the past two posts haven't been wonderful and 'year abroady', I'll admit. The first time I posted in November, I basically just whinged for 905 words about how stressed I was etc etc [and really, they weren't exactly third world problems], and the second time was just an update to my things to do list.

But, I hear you all cry, 'what have I actually been doing?'

Well, read on, dear friends, because I shall keep you in suspense no more.

To start with? My mum tells me that my extended family are all under the impression, presumably from my Facebook account, that all I do out here is eat. That's not true, although this post is going to do a horrendous job at proving my point!

So: Mention of food #1: Pretty early on in November, we had one of the other QM/Paris girls and her boyfriend over to stay in our apartment for a while, and while they were around we found our way for the first time to Paris' Chinatown in the 13th Arrondissement near where we live, and had a very nice, very reasonably priced Chinese.

Mention of food #2: Also while they were staying with us, and also on the food front, we went to Rue Mouffetard in the 5th and bought a savoury crêpe each at a little place called 'Au P'tit Grec'. It had some pretty good reviews when we googled it and quite a line in front of it, which usually suggests good food, and it didn't disappoint! I can't remember what the others had, but I had a 'Bolognaise Gallette'. It was really very good, although I only managed to eat about a third of it - they're not expensive, but they don't skimp either, and the crêpes are very big, very filling, and absolutely laden with cheese. 

Au P'tit Grec, in the 5th Arrondissement. It doesn't look like much, but don't let appearances deceive you.

Really good food, and its really reasonably priced too :)

People visiting Paris, if you get a chance, I strongly recommend it. I'm personally waiting for a change to go back so I can try their Chocolate Orange crêpe with Grand Marnier. I'm drooling at the very thought of it...

Mention of food #3: Continuing with the crêperie theme, I also had a crêpe at Le Terroir, which is near Les Gobelins in the 13th Arrondissement. 

Crepe St Michel

Also very good, also very reasonably priced. This one is called "St Michel" and basically consists of Apples, Sorbet and Calvados (Apple Brandy) which was very strong (I felt like my tongue had been anaesthetised) but very moreish, and there were several other crêpes on their menu which are just begging for me to go back and try them!

(In the interests of full disclosure on the food (Mention #4) front, I also feel compelled to mention at this point that in addition to the sudden influx of crêpes, I seem to have taken up sampling the croissants of one or two local patisseries, on occasion, to see the difference between them. All on a purely scientific basis, of course. Not just because I happen to pass said patisseries and develop a sudden instantaneous pastry craving. Not at all.) 

***

What else? Well tonight, I trekked over to the Champs-Élysées where the 'illuminations' (read: Christmas Lights) were being turned on. It didn't happen until nearly 45 minutes after the advertised time, and I'm fairly certain that I'm going to lose all my fingers from frostbite as a result. The lights were pretty, though.

The moment the lights were turned on, we were all covered in silver confetti :) I have to admit, it looked gorgeous!

Looking towards the Arc de Triomphe; there were loads of people on the top [of the Arc] watching the lights get turned on. I wish I'd thought of that - I bet it was really spectacular watching the whole avenue light up at once!

I love this picture. Makes me think of a proper winter wonderland..

Not sure they were pretty enough to justify my losing all my fingers from sheer cold, but still very pretty! :)

After that, I decided, with my cold addled brain, not to go to the closest tube station and therefore perhaps save at least my thumbs, if not my index fingers,  which would have been the sensible thing to do, but instead to wonder down towards Place de la Concorde where a Christmas market has set up camp (which admittedly, was the more fun thing to do). 

Christmas Market on the Champs Élysées

There, (prepare for mention of food #5), I decided to buy myself some Churros, which I was introduced to when on French exchange back in 2010 and which I now cannot resist on the rare occasion I see them for sale!

Churros are so so bad for you, but mmmm. Roll them in sugar and they're so so good!

There were some beautiful things that I was dying to stop and buy, but a) I was on the point of hypothermia, b) I'm a student on a very tight budget, and c) I'm going to be seeing a lot more of Christmas markets in the next month or so and it seemed a shame to blow out on the first one I came across.

So I didn't buy anything. But I may have to go back before the end of the year!

So that's most of my November in a nutshell. We've got guests again this weekend, but with my budget running rather low, I doubt I'll be doing anything terribly out of the ordinary or blogworthy, so this post will probably be the last for this month, although I will of course post if something terribly exciting happens, like I meet the président or something. Unlikely, but there we go. 

And with that, I realise that now we're nearly into December, and Christmas is really starting to feel close! My lovely mum sent me out an advent calendar and lots of chocolate (does this count as mention of food #6?) in the post, haha (and actually did it some weeks ago, so I've been well prepared for a while). 

My December is going to be awesome - I've got a lot of fun things on, so expect loads of blogging from me next month. Specifically, other than going home for Christmas, which I am so excited about, in the next few weeks I have two things planned which I'm particularly looking forward to, and there should be loads of pictures, which always makes a blog nicer to read!

Until then -

Vicky xx

PS. Despite the numerous mentions of food in this post, I am sticking by my earlier claim that I don't actually eat all that much, outside of regular mealtimes. November just seems to have been a bit of a blip...